You shall not pass: how to collaborate with startups or incumbents for overcoming barriers to sustainable innovation in the textile industry

Collaborative innovation is essential for addressing grand challenges like climate change, yet these efforts often face significant barriers. This study investigates the mechanisms and strategies of collaboration for sustainable innovation by providing an overall understanding of such contexts integrating barriers, the role of intermediaries in dyadic collaborations and knowledge spillovers. Using an embedded case study of sustainable innovation projects carried out by a large Italian textile company and its various partners, the research identifies some key factors influencing the success or failure of collaborative projects aimed at sustainable innovation. The findings highlight the critical role of intermediaries in facilitating communication, aligning goals, and providing necessary resources and knowledge. Even failed collaborations can produce valuable knowledge spillovers, fostering future innovation. The study proposes that the timing of barriers and the involvement of additional partners significantly affect outcomes. By examining nine collaborative projects, the research offers insights into effective coordination mechanisms and the importance of trust, strategic alignment, and continuous learning. These findings can also provide practical guidance for managing collaborative efforts in sustainable innovation, emphasizing the need for robust intermediary roles to navigate complex innovation ecosystems.